Armstrong Shock Absorber Manual

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Shock Absorber Rebuilding

Armstrong Shock Absorber Manual Parts

03 Suspension, Steering & Brakes‎ > ‎

Armstrong Lever Arm Dampers - adjustment

Armstrong lever arm dampers were fitted I believe up to the 1990's (I am sure somebody has the exact date - people are like that!). There is a lever attached to the axle with a short rubber bushed link. This lever operates a pair of pistons with a 'seesaw' in a pair of bores in the body. These pistons pump oil through two adjustable valves, one for bump damping and one for rebound damping. The pistons are usually sealed with polymer piston rings. There is a 10:1 lever ratio, so if the axle is moving 1 inch over surface irregularities then the damper pistons are moving only 1/10th inch, hence the bores wear in this small region. As the bores wear the hydraulic oil squeezes past the piston rings rather than being controlled by the valving in the units, thus loss of damping.

Besides the internal wear, these units can leak through the seals where the shaft comes out. These seals can not be replaced without removing the lever from the shaft, this is a job for experts with the correct tools and new parts. Best, unless desparate, to compensate for the wear and manage the oil loss - tough!

The units are easy to top up in situ, there is a filler plug near the top. Use SAE20 hydraulic oil (Motorcycle fork oil - easy to obtain) in an old fashioned trigger type oil can and squirt it in the filler hole. I tend to fill to brim, knowing some will escape as things get warm, but the lost oil lubricates the leaf springs!

First flush the units through: Remove the top plate of the damper unit, carefully keep the gasket. Flush out with white spirit or parafin, not petrol. Pump until it runs clear.

As these units run as std on SAE20 hydraulic oil, the first attempt at compensating for wear is to go up a grade in oil viscosity, as these units are sensitive to viscosity. (NB Many modern damper units are more sensitive to density so changing grade of oil has minimal effect). SAE 30 motorcycle fork oil is easy to obtain. DO NOT USE anything thicker, the risk is that you will damage the unit, either twisting off the lever or destroying the piston seals. No need anyway, as you can adjust the units!

These units can easily be adjusted for both bump and rebound damping independently. Bump damping is always around 1/3 rd the stiffness of rebound damping. Bump damping affects how much you feel through the seat going up over bumps and how hard the diff hits the parcel shelf. Rebound damping really controls the oscillations after a bump. The amount of rebound damping is quite subjective, whether it damps the first oscillation or the second or the third. Lift up and push down on the rack vigorously then release, to test yours!

The units are bolted to plates that are bolted to the chassis. To get the units off to adjust them means unbolting the plates from the chassis or drilling holes in the plywood inner wings to access the bolts. OR replace the nuts and bolts with studs from the plates as below:

Photo below from Morgan Club de France http://www.morganclubdefrance.com/Technique/Restauration_JC/Restauration_JC.htm

Below, is a trial fitment of a plate with studs, before things were cleaned up I hasten to add!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Adjusting the units: There is a large hex head 'nut' at the bottom of the units, this can be unscrewed to remove the damper assembly, take care of the 'O' ring. As below:

The damper assembly looks as below when assembled:

The little washers between the large diameter coil spring and the valve body set the preload on the BUMP damper valve. So add more washers to get more BUMP damping, try one or two washers at a time, you can easily find washers of similar id and od, if not file some.

The little nut that compresses the smaller inner coil spring controls the REBOUND damping. This nut is soldered on its thread to stop it moving, easy to unsolder and resolder. Screw this nut in increases the REBOUND damping. Try one turn at a time, it is quite sensitive.

Do both together, clamp them together in a vice, then by hand pressure on the end of the levers you can compare their resistances to get them both similar.

Refit to car and test. Hours of fun there then!

Rebound valve adjustment starting point ~ compress back of the car and release, eg kneel on bumper and get off; the suspension should return the car to static ride height and no more. It should not bounce beyond static ride height.

Bump damping adjustment ~ although it is ideal to set this low to get minimum vertical upward acceleration that you feel through your seat/spine, owing to the limited bump travel it is more usual to set the bump damping to minimise the impacts of the top of the differencial on the parcel shelf. If this is not a problem then set bump damping as low as you can to prevent bouncing after a series of bumps or wallowing after quick steering inputs.

I hope that this helps those who wish to or need to keep originality run theirs' for a little longer. PJB

Armstrong Shock Absorber Catalog Author: wiki.ctsnet.org-Mandy Eberhart-2020-12-02-14-25-29 Subject: Armstrong Shock Absorber Catalog Keywords: armstrong,shock,absorber,catalog Created Date: 12/2/2020 2:25:29 PM.
Details about Armstrong Shock Absorbers Catalogue 1954-1988. 02 to 58 Haynes Online Manual. HAYNES OWNERS WORKSHOP MANUALS - SERVICE.

Asus x54c drivers windows 10 64 bit. For the MGA front shock absorber (top of page), bump travel (upward) moves the top piston toward the valve and the bottom piston away from the valve. Port B therefore will be the supply port for the bump direction, while Port A will be the supply port for the rebound direction.